Want an Adventure Vacation That Checks All the Boxes?Let’s Talk Portugal!Part 1 In the Series

Want an Adventure Vacation

That Checks All the Boxes?

Let’s Talk Portugal!

Part 1 In the Series

Alison Christie

The Ashland Beacon

My great friend Laurie Lewis and I took an amazing trip to Portugal, and we can safely say we traveled from north to south — and most definitely west. We stood on the cliffs of the most southwestern tip of Europe in Sagres, and we even flew three hours west to the Azores. (More on that later!)

We began our journey flying from the States to Porto and hit the ground running. Landing at 9:30 a.m., we took an Uber to Ribeira, where our hotel overlooked the beautiful Douro River. After dropping off our bags, we enjoyed a wonderful lunch paired with Vinho Verde, a Portuguese favorite. Despite its name meaning “green wine,” the grapes are fully ripe — the wine is crisp, refreshing, and perfect for shaking off a bit of jet lag.

Travel tip: The best way to adjust to the time change when heading east is to fly overnight and power through that first day — no naps! And that’s exactly what we did.

That afternoon, we took a Tuk Tuk tour to get the lay of the land. We crossed the Douro River on the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel. Dinner that evening was at a fabulous waterfront restaurant, where we enjoyed fresh sea bass and a breathtaking sunset — the first of many seafood dinners to come.

Exploring Porto

Bright and early the next morning, we joined a guided walking tour of Porto. One of our first stops was the famous Livraria Lello, often rumored to have inspired J.K. Rowling while she lived in Porto and wrote the first Harry Potter book. Although Rowling has never confirmed the connection, it’s easy to see why the legend persists — the curved, intricate staircase inside is pure magic.

We wandered through charming streets lined with statues and squares, stopping for coffee, Ginja (a delicious cherry liqueur), and our first Pastel de Nata. It wasn’t the best one of the trip, but when in Portugal, you have to try the classics!

We then crossed the Dom Luís Bridge again to the Vila Nova de Gaia side, where we rode the cable car down to the river and took a scenic boat ride under all seven of Porto’s bridges. Dinner that night was at a fabulous sushi restaurant, where we sat at a bar watching four chefs at work — a treat in itself. We ended the evening sipping port wine at an outdoor terrace overlooking the Douro, the city lights glimmering beneath the bridge. Absolutely magical.

Down the Coast

From Porto, we rented a car and headed south along the coast. Our first stop was the seaside town of Nazaré, famous for its massive waves and surf culture. We strolled the beach, watched locals drying fish at the market (a bit smelly but fascinating), and enjoyed another incredible seaside lunch — yes, more sea bass!

Next, we continued to Óbidos, a charming walled city filled with narrow cobblestone streets and vibrant flower boxes. It’s one of those places where you can wander aimlessly and never get bored. After exploring, we drove on to Sintra, where we spent two nights at a lovely little boutique hotel called Storytellers Villas. With only six units, it felt wonderfully intimate. Our two-bedroom suite had a kitchen and cozy living space, and the Nepalese housekeeper even prepared breakfast for us each morning in the charming common area. The garden, complete with a koi pond, was the perfect retreat.

Dinner that evening was just down the road — a quirky mix of Italian and Indian cuisine. Odd combination, I know, but my pasta was delicious (perhaps I was just craving carbs after all that fish!).

Castles, Palaces, and Plenty of Steps

The next day in Sintra was all about walking — and what a day to forget my smartwatch! I’m certain we logged more than 20,000 steps.

We started at Quinta da Regaleira, exploring its lush gardens and the mysterious Initiation Well — a spiral staircase descending deep into the earth, full of Masonic and Templar symbolism. The estate felt almost mystical.

From there, we visited the Moorish Castle, a sprawling fortress dating back to the 8-9^th century, perched high in the mountains. The drive alone took 25 minutes of winding roads! After climbing the ruins and taking in panoramic views, we hiked even higher to the Pena Palace, perhaps Portugal’s most iconic landmark. With its colorful turrets and sweeping vistas, it was absolutely worth every uphill step.  Do you hear gasping for breath?

For dinner that night, Laurie and I invited our lovely housekeeper to join us in downtown Sintra. The town buzzed with energy well into the evening. We sampled octopus, sardines, and — you guessed it — more fish. The sardines were surprisingly good, though I can’t say I’d want them every night!

More on our Portugal adventure in next week’s Beacon.